Victoria Falls

Becky, Nora and I had an amazing long weekend in Victoria Falls.  We flew into Livingstone, Zambia and took 3 cabs to get across the border to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.  Between the defunct currency and the general ridiculousness of the Mugabe regime, Zimbabwe is a fascinating country.  The people were incredible friendly and intelligent, we felt a million times safer than we do in South Africa, and we made tons of new friends.  It is really one of my favorite countries in the world so far. 

The actual falls are incredibly beautiful and impressive.  It is the largest waterfall in the world and is enclosed in a national park.  There are lots of activities like bungee jumping, zip lining, white water rafting (except in April b/c it's too dangerous), sunset cruises, game drives, gambling, and a great craft fair with beautiful stone work and wood carvings.  Becky and Nora bungee jumped but I was content to watch them.

Ponchos are for suckers

We stayed at the Shoestrings backpackers which was simple but perfect.  Clean, safe, in walking distance to everything and the center of local nightlife for Zimbabwaens in their mid 20s.  Also very cheap, both for the rooms and the drinks.  We made lots of good friends including Bornwell, Jacob, John, Sunshine, Cowboy and Chocolaka.

After Nora and Rebeca left Sunday morning, I wandered over to the Victoria Falls Hotel which was the first hotel in all of Zimbabwe.  It was built by the British shortly after the discovery of the falls.  It has a beautiful view and is a nice place to have tea, lay by the pool or walk around.  Later I watched the sunset at the Victorial Falls Safari Lodge where I made some friends.  We headed over to the casino together to play some blackjack.  Finally, we went on a late night game drive and called it a night. 

I obviously asked alot of questions about the government.  I think these are the highlights.

1.  Robert Mugabe and Morgan Tsvangiria are both Shona but the people I talked to think Tsvangiria is more for equality for all Zimbabwaens including Ndebele and Tonga.  Most people in the Victoria Falls area are Ndebele so they suffered greatly a couple years ago after the elections when Mugabe cut off the food supply to areas that did not support.him.  My friend Bornwell is a river guide and he would cross the river in the middle of the night to Zambia to try to find food for people.

2. No one seemed to know if the press is free so I read the paper for myself and it's not.  It calls the opposition party comical and ridiculous and had multiples stories about how bad they are.  There was also a story about prisoners dying of malnutrion because they haven't had meat in four years so I guess it does not try to sugar coat everything.

3.  White Zimbabweans were driven out of Zimbabwe in the 90s - they were only about 3% then but are less than 1% now.  Their land was taken away and given to Mugabe supporters regardless of whether or not they had any farming experience.  So now the farm land lays barren and Zimbabwe has to import the stables like pap that they once exported.  A couple years ago, Mugabe told white farmers they could come back now but they think it's too late, the land is ruined.  I met one white Zimbabwean who moved to the UK but is trying to find a job now so he can move back.  He said he agreed that land reform was necessary after independence in 1980 because 1% of the population owned 70% of the land but it was done in a way that was detrimental to white and black.

4.  Zimbabweans my age got a really strong public education and until about 10 years ago, Zimbabwe was considered the center of higher education in southern Africa.  They are smart, worldly, and I found many to be very ambitious and goal oriented.  But, they all told me that the kids in schools now are getting an inferior education if they go to school at all and they are worried about the future of their country. 

5.  There are not alot of clothes there.  Everyone asked me if I had any extra t-shirts I could give them and I wished I had brought more stuff with me. 

View from the bar at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge




Victoria Falls Hotel

 

Going Back to America Soon

I head back to America in 11 days.  On tap for the end of my time in South Africa:

1.  Breakfast tomorrow with SABCOHA which is a coalition of businesses that are working to get more companies to offer HIV counseling and testing at the workplace.  

2.  A long weekend at Victoria Falls!  We are flying into Livinstone, Zambia and staying at a hostel in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.  There is actually a bridge that goes across the falls and spans the countries' border.  It is one of the wonders of the world and April is when the falls are in full force.

3.  My mom gets here!  She will arrive while I'm away but I will see her on Monday evening.

4.  My final meeting of the HIV Schools task team which has been interesting but has also been frustrating.  Due to some extenuating factors, we haven't made that much progress in my time here.

5.  Pearcey's birthday! 

6.  A day at the races!  I can't leave South Africa without checking out the ponies. 

And finally,

7.  An 18 hour flight plus a 9 hour layover in London.   It's the weekend before the royal wedding so I'm thinking we (me and my mom) should do a ridiculous tour of all things wedding.

Looking forward to seeing friends and family and all the other othings I've missed about America.  I sure hope Tracy Jordan's return coinsides with mine. 

Will post pictures over the weekend.

Couldn't Agree More

“We welcome the fact that history is on the move in the Middle East and North Africa, and that young people are leading the way.  Because wherever people long to be free, they will find a friend in the United States. Ultimately, it is that faith – those ideals – that are the true measure of American leadership.” - President Barack Obama

My scary adventure to the Northern Cape

So on Wednesday I drove to the Northern Cape for two days of visiting health care facilites that are intitiating patients on ARVs (AIDS drugs).  The logistics were a bit of a disaster.

First, I couldn't pick up my car because the rental company wouldn't accept my debit card and Bank of America still insists on shutting off my credit card every week or so because their fraud protection is maybe just a bit too vigilant.  So I had to book at another rental agency through a travel agent and got a lovely Honda Jazz hatchback with air-conditioning, automatic transmission and power steering - win for me.

The drive to Vryburg was uneventful.  I stayed at a cool B&B that was a renovated police station  It didn't have hot water but that was the least of my problems.   The next morning I set off for Loopeng.  The map looked like I could get to the site from where I was and I probably could have if it wasn't raining but the dirt roads were too muddy in the rain.  After 100 meters or so I turned back and accepted the fact that I had to drive 2 hours out of way to get there.

So 1.5 hours later I am a little stressed about being late (even though everyone in SA is late, I still insist on my own punctuality) and as I am driving along and suddenly see rocks the size of basketballs across the road every 10 feet or so.  So I drove slowly on the grass like the cars in front me were doing until the source of the rocks came into view.  About 30 kids were up ahead waving me back, yelling and holding up signs.  I drove a litle closer to figure out what was going on and all the kids surrounded my car.  5 or 6 of them had big rocks in their hands and they were gesturing towards my windshield, obviously conveying their threat to throw them.  I rolled down my window to ask the kids what was going on and they explained that they were picketing their school because their teachers were abusing them.  I begged the kids at the window to tell their rock weilding friends that I was on their side, I would turn around and drive back the other way.  I also mentioned 5 or 6 times that I am American and love protests which is ridiculous but I was grasping.  Despite my temptation, I thought explaining that I walked on the New England Patriot's picket line when I was 6 or didn't eat grapes until I was 18 would have been lost on them.  The kids cheered as I put my car in reverse and went back down the road.  I waved and honked my horn as I drove to make sure the other kids lining the road considered their rocks better used elsewhere.  About 1/2 a mile down the road, I watched as police poured out of 5 cars with automoatic weapons and stood around to figure out their next move.  I found out later that a teacher called the police because she thought a student stole 10 rand ($1.25) from her.  The police assaulted all the boys in the classroom and two are in the hospital.  I also found out later that the police fired rubber bullets and used tear gas but I don't know the details.  Needless to say, it was too scary to take pictures.

Of course there was not another paved road to the clinic.  The GPS didn't work and the local people tried to help me get there on dirt roads which was a disaster.  I drove into several working mines, stopped at a really remote B&B where no one spoke English (but they thought I was a doctor!) and finally gave up and drove back to Kuruman.  Obviously when I got back I realized I had a flat tire and had been driving on the rim for about 20 miles.  Fortunately, I realized this right across the street from a tire place and they fixed my tire quickly.  Bank of America decided to pick that day to shut off my debit card which has worked for the entire 2 months I've been here.  None of cards worked at the ATM or at the tire place but luckily I had a photocopy of our corporate card and the nice lady allowed me to use it.   

The next day I actually visited facilities, another post for another time.  Here is the map of where I was.  The Navajo Nation is the only thing I can compare it to in terms of how rural it is is and how difficult it is to navigate without addresses, etc.


View Larger Map

A bulgarian woman waxed off half my eyebrow

I guess I should have waited until I got back to America.  If you look closely, you can even see the tan line where my eyebrow used to be!

Update on work

The testing campaign in secondary schools has been hit a few bumps along the way but is still moving forward, slow and steady.  Some provinces have already started and KZN reports they testing over 1,400 students in the first couple weeks.  What's really exciting is that only 12 were positive.  That's only .85% in a province with a very high prevalence rate (around 25%).  That information reafirms why I think this campaign is so important to prevention as opposed to just focusing on treatment - hopefully the students who tested negative got the information and counseling they need to stay negative.  Of course, the 12 that tested positive will also get the care they need and knowing their status will help them ensure they don't pass the virus to their partners and future children.  There was an interesting article in the Washington Post yesterday (link here) that suggested DC is backsliding in its efforts to fight AIDS - very unfortunate.  In it, Mayor Gray voiced his support for increasing the schools counseling program.  Maybe after becoming an expert at HIV counseling and testing in schools here, I can help! 

The rate of infection in DC is about 3%, which is much higher than the estimated 0.4% in the US but much lower than South Africa which is estimated at 25%.   

We met with the Minister of Health last week and he reaffirmed his support for testing in schools but also stressed that this campaign will only be successful if it is integrated into strengthening school health programs in general.  That means testing for HIV is part of a package of services which includes testing for vision, hearing, diabetes, anemia, etc.  Makes sense.

The conclusion of Post's visit

We spent the last night hours of Post's time in South Africa at a log cabin at a game reserve.  The Rhino and Lion reserve was much different than Kruger, it's not true wilderness.  But it was beautiful and the game drive was really interesting.  As you can see, we played with the white lion cubs.  White lions are actually 25% of all lion births but they are rarely found in the wild because their mothers kill them in the first few days of their lives.  They are killed because they will never make good hunters because of their lack of camoflauge and they will endanger the rest of the lions.  Some game reserves take them away before they are killed and send them to live in captivity at places like this one.

We also saw lots of lions which we didnt see at Kruger.  They see the vehicle we are in as one large object that doesnt present a danger to them.  So as long as you stay relatively quiet and don't make sudden movements, you are safe.  At least that's what our guide told us. 

The Happy Feet Youth Dancers of Langa

Our tour guide Chippa runs a dance club for all the children of the township called Happy Feet Youth Dancers.  The dancers performed for us and they were incredible.  They range from about 6-16 years old and they practice for at least an hour every single day in a shack that they've painted and decorated.  

Chippa is a father figure to many of these children and tries to provide them with a positive influence and teach them to have respect for themselves, go to school, protect themselves from HIV and pregancy, and just helps them to be good kids.  It is really a remarkable thing he's doing and it was an honor to see it firsthand.  We gave them candy and played with them for a few minutes after.   Chippa said what they need most is warm clothes because many of them only have summer clothes so we need to work out a plan to help them acquire some coats and shoes and sweaters.  That was interesting to me since my experience in the US is that most charities get inundated with clothes and there is an abundance of clothing for those who need it.

We also visited some families in the township.  Most people live in hostels with 9 or more people in a room about the size of a college dorm room.  Others have moved into shacks that have more room and seemed to me like a better place to live but these homes pose dangers like electrical fires so not everyone wants to move out of the hostels.  We bought some souveniers from these families and waited as Chippa bought half a sheep's head for dinner from the ladies who cook them on the street.  Chippa is a wonderful tour guide and we hope to spread the word and help his business grow. 

Cape Town Weekend!

This weekend, Becky, Jessica and I spent a long weekend in Cape Town with our favorite tour guide Chippa!  Our very full agenga included a sunset cruise on Table Bay, hiking Table Mountain (which is very hard, btw), the Cape of Good Hope, the penguins in Simontown, wine tasting at two very beautiful vineyards, beebopping and eating lunch in Stellenbosch, a tour of Robben Island and a stop at Victor Verster prison in Paarl which is the prison from which Mandela was released 21 years ago.  Along the way, we saw baboons, zebra, and seals just doing their thing in the wild.    

Becky and I had done some of these things in December when my mom and I visited but they were just as beautiful and interesting the second time and we were glad to show Jessica around Cape Town which may be THE most beautiful place I've ever been. 

South Africa's wine country is even more beautiful than Napa in my opinion; the views of the mountains from the vineyards are just breathtaking.

 

BP just watching the penguins

Behind chickens on the way to work today!

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Power Lines

I just finished a book called Power Lines which was written by Jimmy Carter's grandson Jason about his time in South Africa as a Peace Corps volunteer.  John Anzalone sent me the book because he thought it was great and it really was.  Jason writes alot about a theme you can't escape here - the incredible contrasts.  Unlike other African countries which are mostly poor, South Africa is marked by extreme wealth and extreme poverty.  The title "Power Lines" refers both to the power structure and complicated racial dynamics but also to a more literal meaning - the thousands of miles of power lines that ran through poor communities but do not stop there to provide electricity.  In the 15 years since Jason left, the country has become more electrified of course and now about 81% of South Africa has electricity. 

Jason worked in a rural village to help teachers adjust to the new curriculum that was developed post-apartheid.  During apartheid, blacks were taught in an inferior education system called bantu education.  The system was designed to provide blacks with an inferior education to that of coloureds, Indians and whites.  It's so surprise that reforming this system post apartheid was a huge priority of Mandela and the new ANC controlled government.  The government invited Peace Corps volunteers to assist in that endeavor.   

Jason was struck by the same thing I and most Americans are struck by.  Most white South Africans are middle to upper class and all live behind gates and electrified fences.  Becky and I live in a gated community with a guard, a pool and a cleaning lady and honestly, it's nice to feel safe all the time in a country known for incredible crime rates which are the highest in our province.  But it makes the immense poverty just a few miles (or kilometers) away from us more intolerable and disturbing.  It also makes our travel out to the provinces really worthwhile and I look forward to seeing more of the country.  The intense HIV campaign we are working on is being implemented in the poorest, most rural parts of the country and that certainly provides hope that the next generation of South Africans will live healthier, more prosperous lives and have more opportunities to build a bigger middle class.  With South Africa being such a young country in it's current democratic form, and black students now receiving a higher quality education and being free (at least legally) from the economic and social constraints of apartheid, it's actually pretty easy to have hope that South Africa is on the rise and destined for better times ahead.   

Limpopo

Yesterday, Laura and I went to Polokwane which is about 3 hours north of Pretoria.  We attended the provincial HCT schools task team meeting to discuss the schools testing campaign.  The meeting went very well and it seems like they will be ready to test soon. We have a new CHAI staffer on the ground there named Themba.  It seems like he is already making a big difference and doing great work.  I found out yesterday that Themba was part of a year long health care training program in Charlottesville, VA!  He was very excited to learn that I went to UVA.

After the meeting, we had a nice lunch of pap (kinda like grits without any fat), lentils, and atchar which is pickled mango.  And of course Fanta.

My South African date book and Vince Lombardi

I have this new date book which is typical of what most South African government workers carry. It's hard cover and has a page for each day where I keep my schedule and also make notes for that day. The best part about it is that there is a daily quote which are about 1/3 Nelson Mandela, 1/3 Vince Lombardi and 1/3 other. Did anyone know South Africans are really into Vince Lombardi? I did not.

"The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor" - Vince Lombardi

Rhode Island and CHAI

Last night, we had dinner and drinks with the Executive Management team who are all in South Africa to have a global meeting about CHAI. It's amazing how well Rhode Island is represented in CHAI. Ira Magaziner, the Chairman (Bristol), Ed Wood, the CEO (Hope Valley), and Peter Ellis, the regional director for Southern Africa (lives between Malawi and Barrington), and of course my mom (Cranston) are all representing Little Rhody across the world!

There were several other country directors there including Gerald from Kenya and Anthony from Zambia who were both really friendly and interesting. Alot of people there were part of the first group that tried to get an HIV campaign started in South Africa about 8 years ago and ran into roadblocks that were too difficult to get past. They were really excited about the progress the team here has made.

I also ate Kudu for dinner! It's a type of antelope and was pretty good but a little tough.

1st small victory!

I just spoke with the HR director at the Hyatt in South Africa and they started an HIV testing campaign in their workplace this month! She was happy to coordinate with me to make sure the information is being reported correctly, etc.

In addition to working on testing kids in schools, I am working on the workplace testing aspect of the overall campaign. The goal is to test 2 million workers in their workplaces by June and it's probably the part of the overall plan that is furthest behind.

Here's some info about why businesses should test (beyond it being the right thing to do) and why it's so important to the overall campaign.

For anyone doing business in South Africa, 10 – 40 percent of the workforce is likely to be infected with HIV. Mining, metals processing, agribusiness and transport sectors are most affected by the pandemic, with more than 23 percent of employees infected with HIV/AIDS.

Companies are directly affected by lower productivity, greater absenteeism, vacant posts, the need to retrain and rehire workers, reduced productivity due to staff inexperience or illness, loss of morale among employees, poor labour relations, less reliable supply chains and distribution channels.

On a general level, HIV/AIDS is affecting business by causing markets to contract or prohibiting them from growing. HIV increases poverty which lessens the demand for goods and services. Additionally, a high number of students drop out of universities because of their own infection or to care for an infected family member. This has a negative impact on buidling an educated workforce in South Africa.

Businesses are in a unique position to tackle this crisis because business has direct access to those most affected.

If a company is willing to test, we hook them up with an NGO to do the testing, the pre and post test counseling and referrals to health facilities so that workers who test positive can get the appropriate follow up treatments.

Good for the Hyatt and nice to end a Friday with good news.

Technological Challenges to Moving to South Africa

Tackling the technology in South Africa is tricky.  In case you were wondering, these are the things that have gone wrong so far.

1.  Bank of America won't let me log on to my account because they want me to verify a text message to my cell phone which I deactivated for 3 months. Hopefully I still have a few dollars but who knows.   
2.  Facebook got a little freaked out and made me do a multiple choice quiz to identify pictures of my friends. I passed with flying colors. 
3.  E*Trade is sure that I have been hacked and won't let me day trade, drastically reducing my revenue source during this volunteer stint. 
4.  My kindle is broken and I need Amazon to send me a new one but of course I have to mail it from America and have it returned to America. 

Some of these things could be solved on the phone but the internet connection is not good enough to skype and of course there are no phones in the office.  However, I just got my blackberry yesterday so I should have everything sorted out in short order!

What I'm doing here

I arrived back in South Africa on Tuesday morning.  After spending a couple hours regrouping in Pretoria, Becky and I headed west to Mafiking, the provincial capitol of the Northwest Province.  The purpose of the trip was a meeting with the Department of Health, Department of Basic Education, Office of the Premiere and several other governmental and NGO representatives to discuss the beginning of testing for HIV in secondary schools and evaluate their readiness to begin testing in schools in February.  The schools campaign is an important part of the greater HIV Testing Campaign aimed at testing 15 million South Africans in a year.  The South African government has set this goal and has both dedicated an impressive amount of resources towards achieving it and harnessed the power of the active NGOs in the country to make clear that this is their top priority.

It's estimated that 95% of children in schools are HIV negative (many children are not in school so I'd imagine the rate of school aged children is much higher) but testing in schools is more than just identifying HIV positive students.  The counseling component is equally important so that these kids can stay negative.  For many kids, this will be their only interaction with health care personnel and people who know their status are much more likely to engage in healthy behavior and stay negative.

The meeting was fascinating and a little overwhelming as the magnitude of the task became clear.  We also managed to have a little fun since one of the main hotels in town was a casino.  We played blackjack and obviously they increased the table minimum when they saw Americans coming.  Fortunately, the increase was to 25 R which is about $4 a hand! 

Back in Pretoria now and excited for the weekend to catch up on sleep a little.